Life in the Deep End

is 

Kalam

Chepkat’s Rural Health Facilitator was once a patient at Lalgadh Hospital. He was given medicine for the cure of leprosy but returned later with ulcers on his feet. This is a common occurrence. The staff at Lalgadh saw something in Kalam that he could not see himself. You might say they could see a light that had never been lit. They cared for him and showed him love and grace. They taught him what it meant to take care of himself. Kalam began to believe he could make a difference. If he could take care of himself, maybe he could teach others how to take care of themselves.

Through the Self Care Training Center at Lalgadh, Kalam was equipped to lead others. Today he has been without ulcers for 13 years. He serves as a Rural Health Facilitator for the Chepkat Village. By every “norm” Kalam would not be leading this community – but empowered with Hope and by God’s grace – he is. Kalam is Muslim. He is giving leadership in a Hindu village, having been cared for and equipped by a Christian organization.  The women in this village are stepping up into leadership. They have put in 15 toilets on their own. They have 12 hand water pumps. Their children are going to school. This village is churning with Hope.

When asked what their greatest need is: 1. A teacher for thier children; 2. More savings; 3. Better roads.

We started this day, March 4, worshipping with the hospital patients and staff. We sang hymns, each in our own language. We prayed the Lord’s Prayer, each in our own language. We said this is heaven on earth.  We ended the day with a devotion by Allen from Matthew 25 about feeding the hungry, healing the sick, visiting those in prison. What we saw at Chepkat tells me the kingdom of God is very near, is now here, is coming. For what we see is not “normal”. What we see today is something greater than what we know. Love has spilled out over the barriers of history, culture and stigma. Love is healing in the face of leprosy. Love carried us across the ocean to Nepal. Love will do what love will do. God is love.Let it be.

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It is 9pm here and our day has come to an end. What an amazing day! I am sitting outside unde a gazebo for Internet acces and letting some of the pictures download to facebook. I can’t get them on my IPAD yet so picture to match the stories will be added later.

Dr. Jim made medical rounds with the physician at Lalgadh Hospital today…60 patients! Jim was touched by the compassion and passion of the staff. Although we met many of them earlier, today he saw them in action at the bedsides and treatment rooms. When he played his mandolin as part of our devotion tonight I was certain his heart was overflowing. It is so nice to have him here to interact with the medical team.

The rest of us spent our day in two villages. The impact in these villages is incredible. We witnessed first hand the community leaders and the fruit of empowerment, healing and restoration. In the midst of deplorable living conditions, the local people are trained and empowered to change their communities. And they are doing it with excellence! Excellence and Love.

The colors of the culture and the peace with which the people live in unforgettable. What are they celebrating? Toilets, washing hands, children going to school, micro loans that are teaching them to save, invest and learn how to create support for their families. One woman we met today was given a $50.00 loan three years ago. She bought a pig and stated saving. This year she is buying a home! Three years of developing the resources and stability are paying off. She is overjoyed!

We saw several toilets in each village. Once the village had been given 1-2 toilets by another community group, they built some in their own community. Their pride and joy in showing us how they have learned basic hygiene and how to build a toilet was so good. Hugh Cross often says this work creates HOPE…and HOPE is what we saw today.

We also discovered a man in one village who was newly affected by leprosy. Hugh stopped along the trail and heard his story. The lesion on his face was obvious. We went by his home…maybe 3 x 5 for a family of 6. Leprosy thrives when basic health, nutrition and hygiene are compromised. This man will be assessed in the field and brought to the hospital so he can have HOPE of a different future.

The eyes of many we saw in the hospital were sad and troubled. Most have been abandoned. Dreams have been shattered. They didn’t expect life to turn this way. And in the villages we saw bright eyes of fire…ready to rise up and lead their famiies and communities with hope and love.  And sometimes hope and love come in the way of a toilet and a water hand pump.

We give thanks for this day and the grace of the people to allow us to come into their villages and learn from their great leadership. We give thanks to God for trusting us enough to be involved in the miracles Christ is unfolding throughout the earth.

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We began with nearly no visibility in the dense fog and landed in Janakpur with the sun shining brightly. A beautiful drive …on switch backs up the “hills” (mountains to us) and through communities that tell us the story of Nepal. As we passed by one small community the prayer flags were everywhere. “This is an important place”….Hugh’s words draw us to attention. Nothing to do or say, just be aware and know.

Kathmandu is primarily Tibetan Buddhism influence and where we are now is primarily Hindu. Nepal is grounded in its spiritual life and you can sense the peace everywhere.  Prayer and ritual are the norm, not a weekly event or occasion; it is the way the people walk through their days.

So here we are…in Janakpur. The leprosy colony (or community being the better word) is quite lovely. After hours of poverty views along the roadside, the arrival at a planned, intentional and well developed campus is like arriving at a retreat center. Lalgadh sits on 100 acres that were purchased and developed by a woman who felt called by God to build a leprosy hospital here. No one thought she was right at the time. No one thought leprosy was a problem in this area. She began with some wound care. Now this campus is filled with hospital wards, training centers, dining hall, staff apartments and a deep sense of mission.

I am so impressed with what we saw today. Meeting the staff and hearing their compelling motivations to “care for the least of these” is, as Jim said, “humbling”. Their love for the people they serve is overflowing. Their organization and approach to their work is beautiful. Their results are incredible. No quick fixes…but long-standing, intentional practices and improvements  have cheated the lives of many on year after another. Many of the key leaders have been here over 15 years.

The girls are staying in the guest house which was Hugh And Diana’s home for the first 5 years they were here (1990’s). It is lovely. Our beds are covered with white mosquito nets. The guys report cool gykos in their house and all of us are talking about toilets which is a common topic in these parts. The Asian toilet is flat to the ground but we have an option for both American and Asian types in this house. I’m thankful.

I am also grateful that we are staying inside the leprosy community with those who are affected by the disease. Tomorrow we will visit two villages where the people come from..their home villages. Hugh tells us that we will “see it, hear it, taste, smell it and feel it” because it is the only way for us to know.

The American Leprosy Mission is a Christian organization.  The Lalgdah Leprosy Community is one of their most successful missions. Lalgdah was started by someone called by God to do it. It is led by equally called Christian leaders who believe they are following Christ’s instructions to care for the sick and the hungry. Their devotion is amazing; they have given their lives to this work. And now by God’s grace we are being given the gift of seeing what the Lord has done with their obedience and faith. Going to sleep amazed tonight.

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Early morning and the sounds of animals and rain are coming from the window. Rain means electricity in Nepal and black outs are normal daily events. The hospital yesterday had a large battery collection(looks like car batteries) designed to channel the high and low surges of electricity. Imagine surgery with black outs… Aghhh! It brings a whole new perspective to  appreciation for our unlimited power at home. For these reasons, we welcome the rain today.

By the way, I have great pictures but the Internet connection is not consistent long enough to get them form my phone to here. Eventually they will be added. Today we have a road travel day. With the weather being as it is we will drive to the village Janakpur instead of fly. It is a 6 hour drive and there is a new road which we are told by Hugh, is very nice. Yay! This will also give us a scenic view of the country. Hugh and his wife, Diana, will be our guides. Hugh is the leader of the American Leprosy Mission here.

We saw monkeys yesterday just hanging out downtown above the storefronts. They are sacred here so they have freedom to go about and play, entertain and just be here. Today will have its own revelations. I have the patients we saw yesterday on my mind. Someone asked me, “having seen the patients for yourself, what do you think?” I didn’t have an answer yesterday. Suffering is suffering is suffering. When you can’t fix it you sit with it. Holding hands, feeding, offering silence or conversation – whatever be needed. My Paramedic background holds me to a place where both tears and strength are required…and ended. Each in its own measure. I know where we are headed will be different than where we have been the past 2 days.

Rain or electricity…take your pick.

“I love you, O Lord, my strength. The Lord is my rock and my fortress, and my deliverer, my God, my rock in whom I take refuge, my shield, and the horn of my salvation, my stronghold.” Let it be. Psalm 18:1-2

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The Bodhnath (Boudha) stupa is the Tibetan Center of Nepal.  As Hugh Cross put it, “you have no idea what you are about to see”. And indeed, there was no knowing that behind the tall street buildings, shops and city life, a giant dome emerges in the center..with prayer flags blowing in the wind, people walking in meditation, incense filing the skies with the scent of frankincense. Breathe in deep…walk clockwise…let your heart be still. Namaste is the greeting. Silence is the practice. Chants give rise to prayers.

From the leprosy research lab and hospital to the spiritual center of Kathmandu, we simply listen, walk and wonder. Being who we are…we stumble quickly into the shops where Tibetan wares are handmade (or not) with the depth of the culture hammered into their form. The singing bowl makes water dance and the sound of the prayer chants emerge as you run the stick around its edges. We try many. We evaluate the sounds. Each one is different. Can we capture this and take it home? It only takes a moment to understand the people value taking time to honor one another and be with each other. No one here is hurrying; everyone moves about with purpose.

I am thankful we are here. Many cultures meld into this sacred space. Many people come seeking. They feed the pigeons to offer penance. The monks in training are robed in maroon garments wrapped about their bodies to tell us who they are in this space. The monastery is flanked by a coffee shop one one side, pashmina scarves on the other. We are caught between the scared center, the shops and our own journeys. Journeys that keep telling us God is so big and the world as we know it has become small. Let it sing.

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It rained today and we were cold. It fit well with our walk through culture, leprosy and science. The healing hand of God was revealed through the scientists, doctors and researchers that make leprosy their life’s work. I loved being in the medical world again; how fun to have my world merging all the way across the world! We visited the research lab and then the hospital ward at Anandaban Hospital in Kathmandu. We ran into three other Americans who also came to see and learn. One is a research physician from Harvard so Dr. Jim being an alumni was a nice connection. Two non-profit leaders that support the leprosy mission, one from Texas and one from California. All of us finding our way through the realities of this ancient disease that still isolates people physically and spiritually.

We learned many things today. Yes, leprosy is curable. But it is also illusive and can lay dormant for years. Poverty, vulnerable immune systems and lack of basic health (clean water, healthcare, food, etc) are major factors that give rise to the disease after you think it is “cured”.  In some cases it can take 20+ years of treating outbreaks to get someone off the meds. All of this is important because comprised immune systems are a huge risk factor. In countries where basic health is at risk, leprosy can find its way in and wreak havoc with a life.

How great is the havoc? We visited the hospital ward where some patients have been more months. The bed is not electronic. It doesn’t inflate and deflate to avoid sores. There is no “call button” for the nurse attached. Most of the patients have portions of their hands, feet and/or legs missing. Leprosy damages the nerves and this often leads to loss of limbs. It is an unforgiving disease.

In the typical Nepali hospital meals are not included in the hospital stay. If you want to eat your family has to bring food to you. In a leprosy ward no one is coming to visit so this hospital feeds all patients. We arrived at meal time and saw many happy smiles as people enjoyed their food.

Food. Basic necessity for life. Compassion. Love. Basic necessities for Life.  Jesus said he wanted us to have life and have it “abundantly”. Sometimes “abundantly” is having someone to care for your wounds, give you a space to sleep and feed you with good food every day. What’s your abundance?

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We arrived in the fog and rain. Everest was hidden from us, as are many other things. We arrive late..wait a long time for 2 bags that didn’t make it…and ultimately land at our hotel in Kathmandu. It is a welcome and enchanting site after 2 days of travel. The rain outside my door sings a cultural melody..of slower pace…of peace..a gentle “welcome”. I came with a carry on and backpack, like everyone else, and already I feel that I packed way TOO much! Do we ever learn simplicity?

We met up with Dr. Hugh Cross and his wife Diana. Over a Nepali dinner we hear more of their personal story that led them from Zimbabwe to Nepal via a school in Britain where they met, fell in love, married and began an adventure of a liftetime. Hugh became interested in “walking” after 17 years of being a shepherd. His podiatry education led to a PhD and eventually (as all God stories tend to be) to the American Leprosy Mission throughs Asia. From the beginning he was mesmerized and “called”  to leprosy.

The Internet connection is bad so this post is written at 1am Nepal time on March 2nd. When it goes “live” is yet to be seen. Ben and Kate Heacock are on my mind. If they were here we would be finding a way to access Mt. Everest before leaving. As it is, I am thankful just knowing it is somewhere near and probably, without even knowing, I will stand in its shadow this week. Let it be.

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The sun is rising here and already it is a morning of blessing.  I woke early for my quiet time and was welcomed by the sound of the prayers coming from….where? It is almost as if they are coming from the air. They float out and everyone hears the chant.  It was the same yesterday as we walked off of the airplane and onto the bridge connecting us. Prayers.

So this morning as I found my way to my prayer space, I was hearing yours. It changes my sense of God. It reminds me, once again, how small God can be when I only hear, see, experience one tradition.  And yet, it is my tradition that grounds me and guides me on the path. I suspect God is big enough to hold us all and I am certain that Jesus is walking through this moment with us.

We fly to Kathmandu today which is in Nepal.  (Dubai is in an area called the United Arab Emirates). Mount Everest is out there and if it is clear we may see much of it when we land.  Anticipation is great.  There are 7 of us on this mission learning excursion.  The three of us, and four members of the American Leprosy Board.  Today we will meet with Hugh Cross, the leader of the mission in Nepal. When he visited our church we were all blessed. What grace of God for us to now be visiting him in his “church”.  Prayers and Peace for the day!

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A Night of Flying: Arrival in Dubai

Do all adventures begin with a need for sleep? In every way I am thankful for 12 hours of flying time to catch up on sleep and rest. The confines of my airplane seat are not an enemy today; it is, instead, the cocoon that wraps me up and holds me until I am rested and ready for the landing that is soon to come.

We don’t know what this adventure holds. There are three of making the journey. We are the eyes and ears of the body of Christ we know in Franklin,TN. We only have the heart of our church, ourselves and the spirit of Christ to carry with us. We come with no expertise. We come with no answers even though we understand our church’s financial support has been a small part of an answer to the leprosy villages in Nepal.

But we have never had leprosy. We have never been to the Eastern part of the world. We haven’t studied leprosy or transformation of communities or Nepalese. We have never been shunned and isolated form our communities. We have not suffered physically to the point of losing not only our physical health, but also emotional and spiritual health. We are not even completely sure how we ended up on this adventure, and yet, we are arriving. I call it the grace of God. Our minds are open and our hearts are ready…to be changed.

We three…different perspectives, different life experiences…united in the love and grace we find unrelenting. Dr. Jim McGinley is a general practitioner that arrives with a mandolin and great sense of humor. Shannon Bennett, who serves on our Missions Team for church, carries the enthusiasm and spirit of adventure that invites you into miracles. We met up with 4 members of the Amercian Leprosy Board and they will be our companions for the remainder of the time. As Christ has loved us, so we are compelled to love others. Let it be.

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